Did you ever try to draw a bow across a fiddle? If you can do it just right it will induce
something called Helmholtz motion in the strings (for an explanation of this phenomenon please see the footnote at the end of this post1). This is really intriguing, and it makes quite a
beautiful sound… but it takes just the right touch. And if you don’t have just the right touch,
you get this heinous sound of tortured cats that we all associate with novice
violinists.
I’ve heard people assert that the violin is the hardest
instrument to play and having dragged my family thru the obligatory hours of
suffering from screeching noises early in my fiddling career, I can attest the
same. Today is the last installment in
our series of covering the five standard bluegrass instruments and I will be
covering the devil’s instrument in some detail.
Let’s start with a few things you might want to know about bluegrass
fiddling.
The Not So Basics
I have found that getting
through the basics on the fiddle is quite a bit harder than the other
instruments associated with bluegrass. One
of the first obstacles that the novice violinist is likely to encounter is
simply holding the instrument. You
probably wouldn’t have thought of jamming an instrument under your chin as a
way to hold it while performing but it does seem to be the only way in which to
secure a violin that frees up both hands for playing purposes. Unless of course you are playing old time
music, where any combination of chest, arms, legs and torso to secure the
fiddle is considered legitimate.
Once the violin is securely wedged under her chin, your
fiddler will want to conjure up some good Helmholtz motion on one of her
strings. This is not an easy
task, as was implied in my opening remarks. Successfully bowing a non-scratchy note demands that an unusually shaped 29” long stick be held by its very bottom end
with a grip that can only be described as awkward2. While clutching thusly, the stick must be precisely manipulated in such a way as to accurately modulate
the pressure of sticky horsehair fibers scraping against steel violin strings in a perfectly straight trajectory with an ever changing cantilever force provided by the portion of the bow that remains hanging out over the violin.
All the gesticulations of the aforementioned flying stick need to be controlled with a peculiar but extraordinarily precise set of gestures involving just about every one of the 37 joints in the right arm, wrist, hand and fingers. Believe me, it is much easier to manipulate a flatpick, easily gripped between forefinger and thumb and situated less than 1” away from a string that merely has to be set in motion with a single stroke.
All the gesticulations of the aforementioned flying stick need to be controlled with a peculiar but extraordinarily precise set of gestures involving just about every one of the 37 joints in the right arm, wrist, hand and fingers. Believe me, it is much easier to manipulate a flatpick, easily gripped between forefinger and thumb and situated less than 1” away from a string that merely has to be set in motion with a single stroke.
You may have noticed the lack of frets on a fiddle
fingerboard and this is indeed, yet another obstacle that presents itself to
the inchoate fiddler. Fingers must of
course be precisely placed on said fingerboard to play in tune and this is
quite a chore to do when your left arm is contorted like a pretzel underneath
your violin. Once the fingers have been
placed, slid or hammered on in the right spots, the violinist must soften the
note with a bit of vibrato3 – and this will involve engagement of
all 37 joints of the left arm, wrist, hands and fingers in another completely
unnatural set of, in this case, pretzel-shaped movements.
All of the above must be mastered simply to eek out a decent
rendition of “Mary Had a Little
Lamb.” Have you considered playing a
harmonica instead?
Intimating Intimidating Intonation
They now make these tuners that clip onto the body of your fiddle so you can
see the readout while you are playing.
This is a tempting way for a budding fiddler to get an approximate idea of
where to put ones fingers but it is a bad idea to continue to use this technique to develop
great intonation. In order to see why,
we will have to dip briefly into the complex topic of temperament. No, not the bad temperament your fiddler has
developed while learning the gyrations described above, but the good temperament
of frequencies of sound to form western musical scales.
Very briefly, temperament can be defined as the tweaking of notes to be sharp or flat (as compared with the "pure" note that is created from the harmonics of a vibrating string) so that instruments can sound in tune in a specific application such as, say, bluegrass music. There are several temperament schemes that are applicable to bluegrass music, the most important of which are equal tempering, Pythagorean tempering and just tempering.
Very briefly, temperament can be defined as the tweaking of notes to be sharp or flat (as compared with the "pure" note that is created from the harmonics of a vibrating string) so that instruments can sound in tune in a specific application such as, say, bluegrass music. There are several temperament schemes that are applicable to bluegrass music, the most important of which are equal tempering, Pythagorean tempering and just tempering.
Your electronic tuner uses equal temperament, which allows an instrument like a keyboard or guitar to play in any key. It is basically splitting the difference in
all the keys and this averaging allows playing in different keys without
retuning. A fiddle, however, can do
better than that and when playing melody, it sounds much better to use
Pythagorean temperament. That is, until
two or more strings are played at once (called a double-stop) and in this case,
in order to sound true, the fiddler will have to switch to just temperament. A more detailed description is beyond the
scope here but Dr. Sassmanshaus has an informative tutorial of these three
temperaments if you are interested <link>.
31 Different Flavors of a Note
A single note produced on the fiddle has quite a few
dimensions in addition to the obvious vanilla, chocolate and strawberry flavors
of pitch, duration and loudness. Listen
carefully for how a fiddled note starts – good violinists can, for example, choose
to define the beginning of a note with an almost inaudible 50 millisecond
“scratch” which gives the note considerable definition. Alternatively a fiddler such as, say, Kenny
Baker, can choose to switch bow directions and make nary a sound, and doing so
gives an impression of extreme smoothness and fluidity. Notes can be slurred by playing multiple fingerings
in a single bowstroke. Volume can be
changed for dramatic effect during long bowstrokes. Trills, triplets and other decorations can be
added fluidly at any point during a single bowstroke or with separate bowstrokes without
worrying about pick direction. Generally
speaking, none of these additional flavors are available to your plectrum
holding peers, and when used properly by a competent fiddler, they enable the
violin to be an extremely expressive instrument.
The more general topic of how one might use bow motions to
get these effects has been widely explored thru the ages by many a
violinist. These maestros have provided
formal names for at least the 31 original Baskin Robbins equivalents for fiddle
bowstrokes, using such appellations as detaché, martelé, staccato, spiccato and
of course legato. I will again refer you
to Dr. Sassmanshaus for an excellent tutorial on these techniques and more if
you are interested <link>.
Shuffling Through Various Bowing Patterns
Mandolin and guitar both have flatpicking and crosspicking patterns. Scruggs style banjo has its various rolls. The analog on fiddle would be bowing patterns,
the simplest of which is a sawstroke.
Here, the bow changes direction with every note. And, as mentioned above, if you instead play two or
more notes sequentially in a single bow stroke it is called a slur and these are quite
useful for smoothing things out – especially if you don’t have Kenny Baker’s
ability to turn the bow around without anybody noticing. Slurs are also essential in order to
shuffle. No, not the dance but the
bowing pattern.
There are a couple of shuffles that are used in bluegrass
and old time fiddling. The Nashville
shuffle, called “potatoes” for some strange reason when it is used to kick off
a song, is characterized by one long bow and two short bow strokes. It sounds like this: do-dickey-do-dickey-do-dickey-do. The long bowstroke (the “do) consists of two
slurred sixteenth notes (or a single eighth note) and then the short bows (the
“dickeys”) are sawstroked as sixteenth notes.
Here is an easy to follow video on how to do it if you are interested <link>. Things can get tricky when first learning to
shuffle, however – the bow direction reverses on every other long note and it
takes some getting used to. Once a
fiddler learns the Nashville shuffle, it is so cool that the tendency is to use
it for everything. This disease is
called shuffleitus and is surprisingly common among novice fiddlers. I myself suffered quite a long bout of it
early on. The only known cure is a combination of sawstrokes and longbow.
Some old time fiddlers use a variation called the Georgia
shuffle – this is a pretty slick technique that consists of one short bow
(usually a down stoke) and a long bow (upstroke). The short (down) bow is a single sixteenth
note and as many as three slurred sixteenth notes can be played with the long (up)
bow. Obviously the velocity of the bow
is quite a bit higher on the short downstroke, since it has to cover the same
distance as the upstroke in 1/3 of the time - this gives that note an automatic
emphasis and represents another form of syncopation. It is quite catchy but hard to initiate. Here is a pretty good instructional video on
how to shuffle the Georgia way if you are so inclined <link>.
If you are more
generally interested in these and other shuffles, there is quite an extensive thread
on the Fiddle Hangout, and I’d urge you to read thru it <link>.
While we are shuffling it might be good to cover the double
shuffle. This is known by various other
names, including triple shuffle and hokum bow.
Here we have again the highly syncopated pattern of beating three
against eight that we saw in the mandolin and guitar crosspicking and then
again in our discussion of Scruggs style banjo.
The best place to hear some hokum bow is during the climax of the
fiddler’s showpiece The Orange Blossom Special. Here is a link to a video of my friend and
fiddle virtuoso Annie Staninec playing the aforementioned standard, including a
highly impressive triple shuffle.
I will conclude this section with a few words on bow
direction. In bowing, as in flatpicking,
it is desirable to have a downstroke coincide with the downbeat4. This is because the downstroke is naturally
much more powerful and will lend the right feel to the music when executed at a downbeat. However, as can be observed by trying to use
the bow patterns described above in an actual song, it is impossible to
strictly always follow the downstroke on the downbeat rule. Note that this is most unlike flatpicking a
guitar or mandolin, where it is mandatory to follow the down-pick on a downbeat
rule (with a couple of exceptions). So,
for fiddlers, I have a similar but slightly more nuanced recommendation. My suggestion is to work one's bowing by being flexible when playing most notes... i.e. have freedom to choose up or down as seems to fit the tune and/or the pattern. However, always make sure that the bow direction gets back to being a downstroke on important downbeats5. An example of an important downbeat would be a note at the beginning of the A part or B part of a fiddle tune or perhaps at the beginning of
a distinctive phase. This approach will leave a good deal more freedom of how to bow the intervening notes, which will be needed in order
to accommodate all of the various bowing patterns that are described above.
Putting Theory into Practice
It is said that a good bluegrass fiddle break6
consists of lots of longbow. True that.
It involves lots of bluesy licks.
Also true that. Chubby Wise set
early precedence for this back in the 1940s with Bill Monroe’s seminal
bluegrass band and excellent fiddlers have continued the same. There is no better way to learn about
bluegrass fiddling than to listen to it.
Let me conclude with a list of my favorite bluegrass fiddlers and
include a few comments on each.
·
Kenny Baker – really smooth, classic style, set
the standard for bluegrass fiddling. A highly recommended CD is the
classic Kenny Baker plays Bill Monroe.
This is mandatory listening.
Kenny recorded many other instrumental CDs. He was with Bill
Monroe for something like 20 years and passed away relatively recently.
·
Bobby Hicks – among many other things, Bobby played
on a series of bluegrass albums called “The Bluegrass Album Band”. This
is the archetypal fiddle and also mandatory listening. Bobby’s contribution on
these recordings is bluegrass fiddling at its finest.
·
Benny Martin was one of the original Flatt and
Scruggs fiddle players back in the ‘50s and defined some really archetypal
licks that are widely copied even today.
·
Paul Warren, also one of the Flatt and Scruggs
original fiddlers back in the 50’s and 60s – set the standard for smooth
fiddling pre-Kenny.
·
Vassar Clements – one of Bill Monroe’s fiddlers,
Vassar had a more relaxed and distinctly bluesy style. Became one of the
“old and in the way” (Jerry Garcia, Peter Rowan, ...) hippy movement. Passed
away some time ago.
·
Some more fiddlers that are or were highly influential in bluegrass: All worth checking
out.
- Aubrey Haynie
- Michael Cleveland
- Stuart Duncan
- Alison Krauss
- Andy Leftwich
- Ricky Skaggs
- Jim Van Cleve
- Benny Simms
- Jim Buchanan
- Curley Ray Cline
- Howdy Forrester
- Byron Berline
- Scotty Stoneman
- Arthur Smith
- Mack Magaha
- Art Stamper
- And of course the aforementioned Chubby Wise!
I'm sure to have left out other important bluegrass fiddlers. If I have not mentioned your favorite, please go ahead and include him or her in the reader's comments.
This concludes my five part series on the standard bluegrass instruments. (I don't play resonator guitar or Dobro so I don't feel qualified to cover that instrument.) I'll be spending next week out at Wintergrass in Bellevue, Washington. I'm performing on bass with the band Faast and Blair, and if you are out there, please be sure to say hello. In subsequent posts, I'll be exploring the human voice, three part harmony and other important aspects of singing in bluegrass music. I may insert an intervening post with a light treatment of some music theory as it will make the one on harmony easier to digest.
Keep on pickin'!
1 I have often wondered why a violin string makes
a sound when horsehair is drawn across it.
As alluded to in the opening paragraph, Hermann von Helmholtz pondered
the same thing in 1877 and figured it out.
Here is a slow motion video of a bowed violin string – one that von Helmholtz could
never have made in his day <link>. Fast forward
to about the 1:00 mark and you can easily see the mechanics involved. Turns out it is a slip / stick mechanism. First, the bow sticks onto your strings and
tugs at it so it is pulled into a point.
When the side force of the extended string exceeds what the horsehair
can hold, it slips. This causes a
triangular wave to propagate towards the bridge. Upon reaching the bridge, the wave reflects
and inverts. When the inverted wave
gets to your bow again, since it is now causing the string to move in the same
direction that your bow is slipping, and it helps the bow gain traction and
stick again. The triangular wave
continues to propagate towards the nut, reflects off the nut and re-inverts. When this wave reaches your bow again, since
it is now pushing the string in the opposite direction that the bow is moving,
it initiates another slip… and then the cycle starts all over again. This slip / stick cycle happens at exactly
the resonant frequency of the string which is the frequency of the note that
you are trying to play.
2The tip of your right thumb touches the
underside of the stick near the frog.
Flesh from your forefinger (between the first knuckle and the hand
joint) applies downward bow pressure while the very tip of your right pinkie
provides a countering force (think teeter-totter). Your middle finger and your thumb somehow act
as a fulcrum between the forces applied by your pinkie and your forefinger. And you are controlling all six degrees of freedom
with this grip of the stick.
3Vibrato is even more effective than you might
think because of the jagged frequency spectra that violins have and the way that the sound is distributed into space. When you change the frequency of the note even ever so slightly with the tip of your finger, the odds are that the note will transition thru many of these jagged amplitude peaks in the frequency response curve. In addition, the spatial distribution of sound will change dramatically as well. These two effects will make the sound of the fiddle really sparkle and is the source of much of its magic.
4Note that there is a lack of consensus in the
fiddle community on this topic. In fact
I have heard several so-called “any-which-way” bowers that sound quite good –
these are fiddlers that do not abide by the downstroke rule. I’ve also heard a few good “upbowers” who
perform the opposite of the downstroke rule.
But if you are just starting out, I personally strongly recommend
adopting a down-bowing style.
5Note that this will usually entail ensuring the bowstroke right before an important downbeat consists of an upbow. This is to avoid a dreaded circle bow motion where the bow must be lifted off the strings and returned at a higher place so another downbow can be started without running out of bow.
6Bluegrass fiddling is a very specific kind of
style. Typically it is used to accompany bluegrass singing songs where
the fiddle plays backup and then will take an instrumental break / solo when it
is the fiddler’s turn. A typical bluegrass
break in a song (vocal number) would be composed of lots of longbow (legato)
and maybe some “saw strokes” – the better fiddlers do this in a detachĂ© kind of
style. Some songs are “modal” (containing a flat 7th) and many
are based on a blues (minor) pentatonic scale.
Other bluegrass songs are more major and stick to the diatonic notes
with lots of emphasis of the _major_ pentatonic scale notes and a few
passing dissonant notes and/or brief interesting patterns (often out of key)
which are quickly resolved. Bluegrass instrumental tunes tend to be
derived from old time fiddle tunes but are more up tempo and tend to be in A or
G or even B instead of the “old timey” keys of C and D.